Japan has done it again. Not with sushi, not with matcha, but with ramen that quietly rewrites what comfort food can be. Towzen, a cult vegan ramen institution born in Kyoto, has landed in Sydney’s CBD, and the queues are doing the talking. On Kent Street, inside a 140-year-old heritage building, diners line up in the heat for bowls of soy-milk ramen that feel both deeply Japanese and unexpectedly modern.